Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Affinois and Affinage

Every argument has a counter-argument, particularly when it comes to cheese. Last week I included the NyTimes article on affinage and featured Ewephoria, a prime example of a cheese produced under the watchful eye of experts practicing this art. There is also another school of thought that believes affinage is just a method of making money, not better cheese.

Ricecreams.com
     Steven Jenkins, lead cheesemonger at 
     Fairway   Market and author of 
    "Cheese Primer", is one expert who
     holds this opinion.

Among his many claims to fame, Mr. Jenkins was the first American cheesemonger inducted into France’s elite Guilde des Fromagers in 1976, and was recently elevated to “Prud’homme”, the guild’s highest status. These labels and his countless awards seem to suggest that Mr. Jenkins knows 
what he's talking about and that his opinion must not be ignored.


So to test out Jenkin's theory I visited Fairway and picked out one of the cheeses that appeared least cared for: It was smushed, chopped into pieces haphazardly, and barely resembled a cheese at all. This style of presentation seemed to be the norm among the brie-like varieties. Quite the opposite of those that have been treated through the process of affinage.
realsimple.com



Fromager d'Affinois is a pioneer among cheeses: the first to ever be made through a special process called ultrafiltration, which removes the water from the pasteurized milk and concentrates all the other ingredients. The process only takes 2 weeks to complete, as opposed to the normal 8 weeks. The product is a rich and unctuous brie, containing more vitamins, proteins, and fat than your average cheese. 

Oh Fromager d'Affinois, I hereby crown ye Cheese of the Week.
 *Clap*Clap*Clap*Clap*Clap*Clap*Clap*Clap*Clap*Clap*

Here's to a week filled with stories and cheese that are vitamin filled, positively unctuous, and pioneers of movements that are accomplished in an unremarkable time.
                                                              
   Vitamin Filled:
To be a superhero, you need to get your fill of vitamins and protein. Phoenix Jones, self-proclaimed superhero, might want to improve his hero skills by filling up on some of this cheese.


   
Pioneered: 
Fromagerie Guilloteau, The makers of Fromager Affinois, are pioneers of ultrafiltration. Franklin Kameny, who passed away this week, was an even greater pioneer for the gay civil rights movement. 
Unctuous: 

I can't think of anything more greasy than a family of bigfoots- they live in the wild, don't shower, and unfortunately can't find any shoes to fit their smelly feet. Next time this woman feeds them she should include some fromager d'affinois cheese on the bagels...I'm sure the bigfoots would enjoy a little added unction.
    'I Fed Bigfoot Blueberry Bagels,' Michigan Woman Says        (Fox News)                                                                  


Unremarkable Time:
Its not important how long it takes to make this cheese- the short time is quite unimpressive when compared to the years-old goudas and cheddars we often encounter. What is remarkable about this cheese is the finished product: its taste and consistency make it truly special. For Fauja Singh, the world's oldest marathon runner, it wasn't important how long it took him to run his marathon. What was impressive was that he completed the race at the ripe age of 100.

No comments:

Post a Comment